Many, if not most of the Txakoli I have tasted have been oh-so-crisp, lean and lively wines something like a Vinho Verde. They are the perfect thirst quenching choice on a hot summer day. This is not one of those. I’ve tried other Txakolina from this winery, and they are a step above and beyond the more typical style. This one takes it to another level still. Extraordinarily fragrant with creamy citrus, green apple, spice, mineral and a light salinity. The palate is surprisingly fruit forward for a Txakoli, offering lively lime, apple and even apricot. For all that rich fruit, it still has the bracing acidity you expect from this region, making for a perfect match with most seafood. Still a great choice for summer, but with its richness, balance and complexity, it’s a white for all seasons, and just the thing as we segue into autumn.