Bruce’s Pick: 2017 Enrico Serafino Gavi di Gavi, $16.99

Having been impressed by this producer’s Barbera and needing a white wine one evening, I decided to try their Gavi. To tell the truth, I have rarely been impressed by the Gavis I’ve encountered over the years, even though they have long been considered one of the most serious whites of the entire Piedmont region. The town of Gavi has long had its own DOCG (Italy’s highest level of geographical classification), and the grapes that make the wines of the region are known as Cortese di Gavi.

So, I approached this wine without high expectations, but was surprised to find it focused, even concentrated, in its layered notes of almonds, white and yellow fruits, and delicate but distinctive florals. It was fresh, intense and harmonious with a pleasant mineral streak and the wildflowers and almond notes making an encore appearance at the finish. In short, finally I have a Gavi that I can recommend!