Bruce’s Pick: 2016 Weingut Knoll, Loibner-Wachau Grüner Veltliner, $27

I drink a fair amount of entry level Grüner (you know, the liter bottles for $12-13 bucks). It’s one of our “refrigerator whites” at home, but heading into fall I wanted to try something a little more serious. I picked this particular version because it was from a known, quality producer, one of the best growing regions, and a recent highly regarded vintage. The vintage itself is characterized by delicate fruit-driven aromatics and fresh acidity, but quantities were reduced drastically by frost and hail.

I think what I especially like about Grüners is their savory character. Yes, there are subtle notes of Asian pear and quince, but the fresh snap pea, white pepper and hint of all-spice lead to a less fruit-driven impression, but an overall balance that leaves them very food friendly. This is a very impressive example that exhibits those characteristics in spades. While Grüners are very versatile at the table, I like to recommend them particularly with pork dishes and shrimp dishes, especially shrimp scampi. Come to think about it, it could well be the garlic and butter in that dish that brings out the best in Grüner. Why not step out of the box and give it a try?