Now that the Holidays are in the rear view mirror and things have mellowed to a less frenetic pace, it's time to let the credit cards cool off and let what remains of your wine cellar rest for the next big occasion. What you need now is an easy-going red that won't break the bank: that was the thinking behind my wine pick this month. The l'Ardoise from Domaine des Rochelles fits the bill with its gentle restraint (barely 13 percent alcohol) and its soft, approachable style. A blend of 90 percent Cabernet Franc and 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon from the Lebreton family's 60 hectare estate in the Anjou region of the west-ern Loire River, the wine is fresh and friendly with a dis-creet mineral and graphite streak framing the core of cherry and red currant fruit. Now is the time for small pleasures and lower amplitude, and this wine delivers a quiet pleasure.