2013 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Chardonnay, Arthur, $33.00

There was a time when the best thing to do with Oregon Chardonnay was to avoid it (with some exceptions, of course). Back then, the fruit came from Chard clones more suitable to California’s climate. The cooler temps of Ore-gon vineyards made it difficult to get the grapes fully ripe. The harvest lagged behind Pinot Noir by two full weeks. Not good. Enter David Adelsheim, who, on a trip to France found that that was not the case in Burgundy. He began the process of importing the French vines which came to be known as the Dijon clones. That heralded the second wave of Oregon Chardonnay, and DDO’s Arthur is an outstanding example. The pear and peach aromas are a bit reserved, but lovely, with touches of almond and flo-ral quince. It’s partially fermented in French oak which provides more to the structure than to the flavor profile. On the palate you get Chablis like stone, mineral and crispness, but with a rounder finish and a kiss of oak.