2011 Frédéric Esmonin Gevrey Chambertin, Les Jouises, V. V., $36.00

I don't drink this level of wine every night (you might ask), but maybe once a month, and this was my one night. Having just returned from Burgundy a few days earlier, I was just not quite ready to be weaned off that regions wines, so I grabbed this bottle from one of my favorite villages in the Côte de Nuits. Since we have been getting a few wines from this excellent value producer in recent vintages, it was time for me to check one out. Frederic Esmonin has some terrific vineyard sites mainly in the village of Gevrey Chambertin, including several Grand Cru and Premier Cru, and while Jouises is just a village level vineyard, it is just a stone's throw from those fa-mous sites. The wine itself was not a blockbuster (look elsewhere if that's what you’re after), but was all about elegance, pure, pretty, light on its feet, with just a hint of the Gevrey terroir and spice. The "sauvage" character for which Gevreys are sometimes known was completely tamed. Indeed, this was a totally polite and well-behaved Pinot Noir that was a genuine pleasure to drink with our roast chicken. This is a perfect example of where a wine-maker's style, a specific vineyard site and a lighter vin-tage come together to produce a minor miracle. I chal-lenge you to find a better priced Gevrey Chambertin from any producer in Burgundy!