The nip in the air, the chance of rain, the impending onset of standard time, all these things and more are telling me that it's time again for Bordeaux Reds. Perusing the racks and stacks at the back of the French aisle is always pleas-urable for me because, compared to my compatriots, I know so little about French wines, so that I actually feel like I'm exploring a wine shop! As is my want, I ended up selecting this right bank red blend. Barry wrote about it last year as his wine pick, but I was curious to see how it has evolved over time. Predominantly Merlot (80 per-cent), with some Cabernet Franc (15 percent), and a bit of Cabernet Savignon, this beautifully balanced wine shows dark fruits right up front, that smooth into sweet cigar box, briar, and raw earth mushrooms. Finishing with easy tannins and just a smoke of dragon fruit, I can recom-mend this Saint-Emilion with steak, lamb, or a rainy af-ternoon movie.